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Q&A Is there a particular type of lead-free solder that does not degrade soldering tips?

PCB's and components are expected to be used with the common SAC solder, there's little reason to use SnPb, IMO. I learned on SnPb. After a brief transition for RoHS to re-calibrate the "feel" of i...

posted 3y ago by Pete W‭  ·  edited 3y ago by Pete W‭

Answer
#4: Post edited by user avatar Pete W‭ · 2021-03-22T03:36:50Z (over 3 years ago)
  • PCB's and components are expected to be used with the common [SAC solder](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tin-silver-copper), there's little reason to use SnPb, IMO. I learned on SnPb. After a brief transition for RoHS to re-calibrate the "feel" of it, never went back. Once or twice an oddball situation needed low melting point, used SnBi (also toxic I believe).
  • Things to look at, many already discussed
  • * Temperature... Need good temp control. Use "extra hot" only when needed. Design pcb with more thermal reliefs when possible to avoid this need. Also, IMO no need for tiny tips, just ends up needing to turn the heat up. I use 2.4mm for everything.
  • * I think name-brand tips with quality plating are worth it.
  • * Avoid any abrasive cleaning of the tip, that would wear away the plating. (but after tip plating is already gone, go to town)
  • * I am suspicious of aggressive fluxes. I think the stuff on solder wick might be such. Would not want to leave that on there for too long. Simply displace with regular solder when done with it.
  • * The water quality on the sponge may be another wildcard factor with corrosion.
  • * Not sure how important it is to wipe off the slag frequently, but I do it.
  • PCB's and components are expected to be used with the common [SAC solder](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tin-silver-copper), there's little reason to use SnPb, IMO. I learned on SnPb. After a brief transition for RoHS to re-calibrate the "feel" of it, never went back. Once or twice an oddball situation needed low melting point, used SnBi (also toxic I believe).
  • Things to look at, many already discussed
  • * Temperature... Need good temp control. Use "extra hot" only when needed. Design pcb with more thermal reliefs when possible to avoid this need. Also, IMO no need for tiny tips, just ends up needing to turn the heat up. I use 2.4mm for everything.
  • * I think name-brand tips with quality plating are worth it.
  • * Avoid any abrasive cleaning of the tip, that would wear away the plating. (but after tip plating is already gone, go to town)
  • * I am suspicious of aggressive fluxes. I think the stuff on solder wick might be such. Would not want to leave that on there for too long. Simply displace with regular solder when done with it.
  • * The water quality on the sponge may be another wildcard factor with corrosion.
  • * Not sure how important it is to wipe off the slag(?) frequently, but I do it.
#3: Post edited by user avatar Pete W‭ · 2021-03-22T03:36:06Z (over 3 years ago)
  • PCB's and components are expected to be used with the common [SAC solder](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tin-silver-copper), there's little reason to use SnPb, IMO. I learned on SnPb. After a brief transition for RoHS to re-calibrate the "feel" of it, never went back. Once or twice an oddball situation needed low melting point, used SnBi (also toxic I believe).
  • Things to look at, mostly already discussed
  • * Temperature... Need good temp control. Use "extra hot" only when needed. Design pcb with more thermal reliefs when possible to avoid this need. Also, IMO no need for tiny tips, just ends up needing to turn the heat up. I use 2.4mm for everything.
  • * I think name-brand tips with quality plating are worth it.
  • * Avoid any abrasive cleaning of the tip, that would wear away the plating. (but after tip plating is already gone, go to town)
  • * I am suspicious of aggressive fluxes. I think the stuff on solder wick might be such. Would not want to leave that on there for too long. Simply displace with regular solder when done with it.
  • * The water quality on the sponge may be another wildcard factor with corrosion.
  • * Not sure how important it is to wipe off the slag frequently, but I do it.
  • PCB's and components are expected to be used with the common [SAC solder](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tin-silver-copper), there's little reason to use SnPb, IMO. I learned on SnPb. After a brief transition for RoHS to re-calibrate the "feel" of it, never went back. Once or twice an oddball situation needed low melting point, used SnBi (also toxic I believe).
  • Things to look at, many already discussed
  • * Temperature... Need good temp control. Use "extra hot" only when needed. Design pcb with more thermal reliefs when possible to avoid this need. Also, IMO no need for tiny tips, just ends up needing to turn the heat up. I use 2.4mm for everything.
  • * I think name-brand tips with quality plating are worth it.
  • * Avoid any abrasive cleaning of the tip, that would wear away the plating. (but after tip plating is already gone, go to town)
  • * I am suspicious of aggressive fluxes. I think the stuff on solder wick might be such. Would not want to leave that on there for too long. Simply displace with regular solder when done with it.
  • * The water quality on the sponge may be another wildcard factor with corrosion.
  • * Not sure how important it is to wipe off the slag frequently, but I do it.
#2: Post edited by user avatar Pete W‭ · 2021-03-22T03:35:10Z (over 3 years ago)
  • PCB's and components are expected to be used with the common [SAC solder](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tin-silver-copper), there's little reason to use SnPb, IMO. I learned on SnPb. After a brief transition for RoHS to re-calibrate the "feel" of it, never went back. Once or twice an oddball situation needed low melting point, used SnBi (also toxic I believe).
  • Things to look at, mostly already discussed
  • * Temperature... use "extra hot" only when needed. design pcb with more thermal reliefs when possible to avoid this need.
  • * I think name-brand tips with quality plating are worth it.
  • * Avoid any abrasive cleaning of the tip, that would wear away the plating. (but after tip plating is already gone, go to town)
  • * I am suspicious of aggressive fluxes. I think the stuff on solder wick might be such. Would not want to leave that on there for too long. Simply displace with regular solder when done with it.
  • * The water quality on the sponge may be another wildcard factor with corrosion.
  • * Not sure how important it is to wipe off the slag frequently, but I do it.
  • PCB's and components are expected to be used with the common [SAC solder](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tin-silver-copper), there's little reason to use SnPb, IMO. I learned on SnPb. After a brief transition for RoHS to re-calibrate the "feel" of it, never went back. Once or twice an oddball situation needed low melting point, used SnBi (also toxic I believe).
  • Things to look at, mostly already discussed
  • * Temperature... Need good temp control. Use "extra hot" only when needed. Design pcb with more thermal reliefs when possible to avoid this need. Also, IMO no need for tiny tips, just ends up needing to turn the heat up. I use 2.4mm for everything.
  • * I think name-brand tips with quality plating are worth it.
  • * Avoid any abrasive cleaning of the tip, that would wear away the plating. (but after tip plating is already gone, go to town)
  • * I am suspicious of aggressive fluxes. I think the stuff on solder wick might be such. Would not want to leave that on there for too long. Simply displace with regular solder when done with it.
  • * The water quality on the sponge may be another wildcard factor with corrosion.
  • * Not sure how important it is to wipe off the slag frequently, but I do it.
#1: Initial revision by user avatar Pete W‭ · 2021-03-22T03:25:23Z (over 3 years ago) 
PCB's and components are expected to be used with the common [SAC solder](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tin-silver-copper), there's little reason to use SnPb, IMO. I learned on SnPb. After a brief transition for RoHS to re-calibrate the "feel" of it, never went back. Once or twice an oddball situation needed low melting point, used SnBi (also toxic I believe). 

Things to look at, mostly already discussed

* Temperature... use "extra hot" only when needed. design pcb with more thermal reliefs when possible to avoid this need.
* I think name-brand tips with quality plating are worth it.
* Avoid any abrasive cleaning of the tip, that would wear away the plating. (but after tip plating is already gone, go to town)
* I am suspicious of aggressive fluxes. I think the stuff on solder wick might be such. Would not want to leave that on there for too long. Simply displace with regular solder when done with it.
* The water quality on the sponge may be another wildcard factor with corrosion. 
* Not sure how important it is to wipe off the slag frequently, but I do it.